We heard you guys like vintage chronographs. Well, no matter, here’s a shitload of vintage chronographs for you. We’ve got center minute chronos, Valjoux 72, in-house calibers, and even a caliber that played golf on the moon. Get ready, it’s Market Watch(ing) time!
Wittnauer GMT Chronograph
Wittnauer remains one of the best values and best looking options when it comes to vintage divers and chronographs. We’ve featured them in Market Watch(ing) many times before, and for good reason. While I’m partial to the 7004A, this GMT Chronograph is also one of my favorites from the vintage Swiss brand. It checks a lot of boxes for me. Chronograph with reverse panda dial, GMT with Pepsi bezel, cushion case, lollipop hand, and the venerable Valjoux 72 based movement. The bezel has a nice fade and fortunately all the patina is matching – and in tact for that matter. As mentioned in the ad, the minute counter hand resets at the 1 minute mark but that’s a relatively easy fix. The price is fair and the seller is trusted both via his site as well as the major forums so buy with confidence here.
IWC Mark XII
Remember when IWC made utilitarian and understated pilot’s watches that weren’t the size of a dinner plate? This Mark XII might be the last one of those they made. The Mark XII is a true successor of the historic Mark XI. The 38mm case and 19mm lug width give it the perfect proportions. For a 23 year old watch, this one is in great condition but still shows signs of a life well lived. Inside beats the IWC Cal. 884 which is essentially the JLC cal. 889/2, which is a fantastic movement. If you’ve been itching for a Mark XI but have been dissuaded by it’s age or size, this is definitely a watch than can fill that void. The size, proportions, condition, patina, and everything else on this piece are just about perfect. I almost hesitated to post this because I wanted to pick it up for myself, but I would never do that to our faithful readers. This is a rare bird and an absolute knockout. Someone buy this thing already.
Over the past few months, I’ve become enamored with the vintage chronograph from Mido known as the Multi-Centerchrono. Upon first seeing an example, the absence of subdials was the first indication that I was looking at something special, and this notion was further confirmed when I saw the crown and pushers that looked strangely familiar for some reason. Sure enough, the case and pushers on this piece are manufactured by the same case supplier (I believe it’s Taubert & Fils) used by Patek Philippe for the Ref. 1463. As for the lack of subdials, this is due to the Cal. 1300 movement found within the case, which features a center chronograph minutes counter, as the name of the watch would suggest.
What we have here, is an example currently being offered by European Watch Company in Boston, and it’s a rare one. Most Multi-Centerchrono’s that you see will typically have a full stainless steel case with a black or silver dial, but what makes this silver-dialed example so interesting is its rose gold bezel, which adds an extra dash of interesting to this piece. Keep in mind, the Multi-Centerchrono is somewhat of a rare watch to begin with, so I can only imagine how many examples with rose gold bezels are floating around out there.
Next up, we’ve got an extremely clean rectangular piece from Longines that is an absolute knockout. While I could go on and on about why I need this in my collection, I’ll spare you for this week and get right down to business. Two things about this watch stand out to me. For one, the oversized case (23x43mm) looks to be in beautiful shape, with minimal polishing work done, if any. Next, is the fact that both the dial and hands are luminous, which isn’t commonly seen on a piece like this, making it all the more exciting. If you’re interested, it’s currently available at Private Eyes in Japan, and I don’t believe it will last very long. Just look at it!
Movado M95 Chronograph
I’m going to keep this short and sweet, as I’m packing for a big trip tomorrow. First up is a beautiful Movado M95 Caliber chronograph. I really feel like these vintage sport Movados might be the next brand to really take off. There is just nothing not to like. This particular example has a stunning telemeter/tachymeter dial with multiple colors. The case looks to be in good shape and is of an attractive size in my mind; something about complicated watches in the 36mm range are just special. Just 2700 Euro and this one is yours.
Omega Seamaster Chronograph ref. 145.006-68
How can you not like a nice, clean chronograph? Am I right? The only thing better than a nice, clean chronograph is a nice, clean chronograph that doesn’t cost both an arm and a leg. This is one of those chronographs. If this Leonidas looks a lot like a Heuer pre-Carrera forefather, that’s because it’s not far off. Before the Carrera was the Carrera, it was a Leonidas. Powered by a Landeron 148, this example is in decidedly decent condition. The spotting on the dial definitely adds character, but doesn’t do so by detracting from the original design. I’d say the crown is replaced (possibly the pushers), but it overall is a solid value as nicely designed steel chronographs continue to rise in price.
Angelus Caliber 215 Chronograph
With vintage chronographs all the rage, off brands a really getting attention; we pick off brand watches just about every week in Market Watch(ing). This week, I’m going two in a row, and this one is an Angelus. It won’t take you long to figure out what I like about it (spoiler alert: it’s the lugs). Come on! Look at those things! Aside from the razor sharp stepped lugs, I like the applied markers on the dial, and the fact that the watch in general looks evenly and not overly patina’d. $2,500 for an 18K gold vintage chronograph doesn’t sound too bad.by