The wait’s over, folks. Market Watch(ing) is back. You’d think we’d get more of a variety having four of us split up the duties, but turns out we still love internal rotating bezels and vintage Valjoux 72-powered chronos. Looks like you’re just going to have to deal with it. Let’s get to the picks!
Neil’s Picks
IWC Vintage Collection Aquatimer
The Aquatimer from IWC has always represented a watch that I enjoy and appreciate. It’s not, however, one I could ever see myself actually spending money on for one reason or another, whether it’s the size, colors, everyday wearability, etc. A reference that is the exception to this rule is this one: The Vintage Collection Aquatimer. This extremely rare piece that is an homage to original Aquatimer from 1967 features a classic super compressor-style case, 120 meter water resistance, and the in-house Cal. 80111 movement showcased through a sapphire case back. The dial, hands, and strap look like they belong on watch 40 years its senior, which is a good thing. And we all know I’m a sucker for a well executed inner-rotating bezel. While the 44mm case isn’t small, I’ve tried on this reference in person and it wears much better than its dimensions would lead you to believe. This model from WUS member “logan2z” is in excellent condition as seen from the many pictures in the listing. These are extremely hard to find. Not that I’m scouring the web for them constantly, but this is the first one I’ve seen available in months. I’m surprised it’s been on the market this long so if you’re interested you better act quick!
$5,300
Longines Legend Diver
Did I mention I like inner-rotating bezels? Here we have the Longines Legend Diver. This falls into the rare category of vintage inspired pieces that actually pull it off and are worth your hard-earned cash. The Longines Legend Diver is watch I’ve long considered buying. An incredibly faithful homage to the original Longines Diver, it’s a great looking watch at an amazing value. My preference is the model featured here, without the date complication or the 300 meter depth rating on the dial. It provides a much cleaner look. This one comes with boxes, papers, an additional leather strap, and the great original fabric strap from Longines. If you’re not particular about date vs no-date, there are several date models around the web for well under $2k. Personally I think the no-date is worth it, and you should still be able to do this deal for about $2k. This Legend Diver is another watch that is hard to find – without the date that is – and probably won’t last long.
$2,300
Isaac’s Picks
Rolex Red Submariner Ref. 1680 “Tropical” + Box and Papers
Just a few days ago, Eric Ku listed quite the solid lineup of vintage Rolex on his website, 10 Past Ten. With a lot of pieces tickling my fancy, I thought I’d share two pieces that really kept me up at night. First up, we’ve got this absolutely stunning red Submariner, Ref. 1680. What you’ll notice right away, is that its dial has aged to an appealing tropical state, that is nice and even. I think this is something that’s overlooked by the average collector in today’s market, and possibly causes a lot of confusion when it comes to pricing. Consistent and even patina is ultimately what you look for in a tropical dial, and I’d be lying if I didn’t say that this one has got it.
As an added bonus, the original box and papers that go along with this watch are also included in the sale, making this piece highly desirable. With that said, the full kit isn’t necessarily always a better buy. I typically recommend placing example condition higher up on the list of priorities, but this red 1680 is pretty beautiful, so I guess that box is already checked. Lastly, it’s also worth noting that the case on this particular example is still nice and thick, with the chamfer on the edge of the lugs still visible. Anyone know of a reliable internal organ buyer?
$40,000
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 “Paul Newman”
The next piece I chose out of Ku’s Goyard-clad catalogue, is an undeniably cool watch that collectors, both seasoned and just getting their start, will be sure to recognize: the Paul Newman Daytona. The offered watch happens to be a reference 6239, which is in fact the same example that King Cool used to wear. Much to the surprise of many, this piece has been priced below the $100k mark, which is becoming somewhat of a novelty.
You could be quick to call this piece an extreme bargain at that price, but the lume plots do have a bit of wear to them, which impacts the price significantly. Then again, this is the case with just about any vintage watch. Condition is everything. I’m sure this one will be off to a good home in no time, seeing as Eric has priced the piece well. In all seriousness, does an appendix have a value on the black market? Send all rogue surgeon recommendations to isaac@woundforlife.com.
$97,500
Dean’s Picks
There are literally hundreds of vintage watch sellers scattered across the internet, many of which are based in non-English speaking countries, so it’s not exactly the easiest thing to find all of these little outfits via The Google. That’s why it’s almost like coming across a little treasure chest when you find a well stocked and curated vintage watch shop online. Ancienne Vintage Gallery in Barcelona is such a shop, and below you’ll find a few pieces they have listed for sale that I REALLY like.
1964 Rolex Gilt Datejust Ref. 1601
Pristine glossy gilt dials on vintage Rolex from the early ’60s? You’re talking entry level luxury car money, right? Well, not if it’s on a Datejust instead of a sub. Personally I think this is probably an area in vintage Rolex that is a bit undervalued relative to said sport watches. We’ve seen the massive results of the Phillips Day-Date auction recently send ripples through the President market, but that hasn’t quite rocketed these “plain” gilt Datejusts into the price stratosphere just yet. This watch right here is a ref. 1601 from 1964. The case looks like it’s probably seen a polishing wheel once or twice in its long life. The folded link bracelet looks good. The dial looks excellent and those doorstop markers at 6 and 9 are….to die for.
Price on request
1965 Universal Geneve Compax Ref. 885103/01
UG UG UG ZOMG!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can’t read a vintage watch blog these days without hearing about this brand. Well, I’m gonna shit in your cornflakes. I don’t like most of em. They are fragile and finicky and expensive to service, and a lot of ’em look too dated for my tastes. The ones I do like are the later ’60s and ’70s examples, especially those in the 36mm cases with the bombe lugs. This case was used to house both Compaxes and Tri-Compaxes back in the day. As far as the Compax goes you’ve got your panda dialed “Ninas” and your Reverse panda, a.k.a. “Evil” Ninas (Hat tip to Mr. Billfactor). Ancienne gallery has listed a wonderful looking reverse panda Compax complete with an early applied logo dial and those mesmerizing little rectangular blued subdial hands. Please note, I have never done business with this seller and can’t vouch for their business practices one way or another.
Now, I would be shirking my duty if I did not not mention the other TWO (!) Panda dialed “Nina Rindt” Compaxes that blew up Instagram this week. This is the work of Mr. James Lamdin of Analog/Shift, which has an excellent (as usual) write up on the history of these watches, one of which is equipped with a unicorn-tears-rare-sunshine-on-my-shoulders pulsations bezel. I’d head on over there to Analog/Shift and check ’em out. They are taking offers if you’re feeling saucy.
Shane’s Picks
Heuer Carrera ref 2447NS
If you’re on the market for an early Heuer Carrera, chances are you’ve seen this one already. That’s because if there’s anywhere on the open market an early Carrera would be up for sale, it’s on Chronotrader. Here we have a rare bird offered up by known Heuer collector, Jeff Stein.
I’ll start off by saying that this 2447NS is absolutely gorgeous. The case, dial, and movement are close to perfect. Jeff notes the one possible “imperfection”, which are the hands. He believes them to be correct for a later 2447, and not service hands. Either way, that doesn’t discount the overall package a whole lot in my eye. These watches hit the market few and far between, so it’s hard to be picky when I see a nice case and intact lume plots. The watch is being offered on a “best offer” basis, with the offer window closing on Monday. His reserve is $15,000, and he already has an offer of $20,000 on the table. I know they’re rare, but I didn’t expect it to hit $20K so easily. If you want to get in on the Carerra game, looks like you’ll have to pay to play.
Offers above $20K (!)
Wittnauer Vintage Super Compressor
My second pick is much more affordable, and frankly, just as cool. Here we have a vintage Super Compressor from Wittnauer. As with most vintage nerds, we love us some super compressors here at W4L. They’re undeniably awesome, and they’re a nice change of pace from external bezel divers.
The late 1960s and 1970s showered us with super compressors from various brands, including Hamilton, Benrus, Longines, and obviously Wittnauer. I often find them in somewhat rough shape, but this example looks incredible. I’m in love with the dial, which not only has fantastic patina, but also reminds me of early Seamasters, Rancheros and Railmasters from Omega. The case appears to be thick and not overpolished, but I would still ask for more pictures showing off the case, movement and crowns (I believe the crowns should have a crosshatch pattern typical for super compressors). For just over 1,000 Euros, this is a great vintage diver for any collection.
€1,050
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