Right off the bat, let me first state that Panerai is a brand that I’ve always deeply admired. In today’s watch market, standing out among the rest is crucial, and the once Italian dive watch manufacturer is well aware of this. Over the past few years, many have noticed that Panerai has entered what some would call a “creative rut”. While the brand may have lost focus on what brought them their greatly devoted cult following, I know that that Italian DNA and magic is still there, and it’s just a matter of finding it again. I’m sure the Paneristi will agree with me when I say that it’s time for Panerai to get back to their roots.
The PAM 360 – a highly regarded reference produced for the tenth anniversary of Paneristi.com. Photo courtesy of Panerai Wristwatch Blog.
As of late, it seems as if the brand is going through somewhat of an identity crisis. I first became interested in the brand for their unabashedly bold, yet simply designed tool watches, with a strong note of vintage inspiration. Today, I personally feel as if Panerai has taken an indolent approach to many of their designs, due to the excessive similarities between particular references, that differ by the nonchalantly minor addition of a rudimentary complication. One could also argue that the brand is playing somewhat of a game of catchup with the rest of its competitors. While the use of lightweight composite case materials does prove for an interesting aesthetic, I think we can all agree that this trend has been overdone by several brands to say the least. It’s time to pave a new path, and move on.
The PAM 616 Carbotech – recently announced at SIHH 2015
Now, by no means does this signify that the brand has lost all of their spirit. Beneath the sea of Richemont-fueled, and unnecessary high-end luxury pieces (with little to no sizeable demand), lies several great references that Panerai has definitely done a stellar job with. First off, the PAM372. Back in 2011 when this reference was released, myself and collectors alike were quite excited for this one. It bears such a striking resemblance to the revered 6152/1, and although there may’ve been some confusion regarding whether or not it was to be a limited edition, you can’t deny its beauty and honoring of the brand’s past. Additionally, I appreciate their efforts to transition over fully to in-house calibers. For a period term some few years ago, I began to wonder for how much longer the brand could sell their pieces at such prices with merely a modified ETA movement. Obviously, Panerai has taken note of this, and in turn developed some great movements, namely the P.5000, as seen in their newer Luminor pieces.
372 vs 6152/1. Photo courtesy of Jake’s Panerai World.
In summation, Panerai has some kinks to work out. They’ve got some of the most loyal and faithful collectors out there, that practically wrote the book on forming online watch communities, along with the popularization of the modern “GTG”. It’s just a matter of the brand finding themselves again, which given their relatively short existence in the modern era could almost be likened to a coming of age scenario. Once Panerai has navigated their way through this patch of rough waters, which I’m sure they will, we’ll most definitely be waiting.
by 
Chris
Panerai may have lost its way, but their fan base seems as rabid as ever. They only need to hint at a new model with a slight dial variation and some hokum about it being a call back to a 1950s military model and the faithful will fall over themselves to pre-order it sight unseen.