Market Watch(ing): A Lone Chrono

Doxa Sharkhunter 300T Synchron

Nine times out of ten, our Market Watch(ing) selection is loaded with chronographs. This week is very much the opposite. Well, well, well; how the turn tables. Statistical anomaly aside, we’ve got a great selection, stretching from vintage “old man” watches, to inspirational vintage divers, to military watches. Sit back, because it’s time to READ UP.

 

Neil’s Picks

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph “Oro Bianco”

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph

Despite frequent criticism, often from me, I am a Panerai fan. Sure, their watches are large and in your face. Reference numbers are seemingly endless and can be difficult to keep track of. Most people either love them or hate them with little room in between. The watch featured here is a bit of departure from their typical references and was one of my favorite watches from 2014, and for good reason. It is the PAM 520, or Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco, if you’re not into the whole brevity thing. This is a thoroughly vintage-inspired piece, which is immediately perceptible when viewing the hands, markers, tachymeter scale, and sub dials. Panerai certainly knows how to do sandwich dials and the one on the PAM 520 is excellent and helps to give the dial added depth. Housed inside is Panerai’s hand wound OP XXV caliber, which is based off of the Minerva 13-22 and is beautifully displayed through the caseback. There were only 100 of these made so it’s certainly unique. It can be yours for a mere $53,865, not the $60,000 you’d expect to pay.

$53,856

 

NOMOS Zürich Blaugold

Nomos Zurich Blaugold

We love NOMOS here at Wound For Life. We’ve written about them numerous times and will undoubtedly continue to do so. They make some of the most good-looking pieces with a style all their own that are a heck of a bargain for the quality you get. This is the watch that first drew me towards the manufacture: the Zürich Blaugold. “Beautifully simplistic,” is how I would describe it. A time only watch with sub seconds at 6 o’clock, 39mm case, 10mm thickness, no crown guards, and a classy Shell Cordovan strap. The deep blue gold dial with rhodium plated hour indices is truly stunning in person. It’s understated, yet is sure to attract attention from those who know. This example is less than 2 years old, comes with the full kit, and looks hardly worn. It’s a fantastic bargain for an even more fantastic watch. You’re not likely to find a more well made and unique watch at anywhere near this price.

$2,995

 

Isaac’s Picks

Pair of Omega PAF Railmaster Seamasters w/ consecutive serials

Omega PAF Railmasters

For many, eBay is somewhat of an exciting new frontier for vintage watch sales. Each and every day, collectors are sifting through the refinished dials, careless re-applications of luminous compound, and franken watches, to occasionally unearth some remarkable pieces. In this week’s hunt for online barn finds, I first came across a set of two Pakistani Air Force issued Omega Railmaster Seamaster’s — each with its own distinctive look, reflecting the individual nature of the aging process.

Although the seller has disclosed that the lume has been previously touched up, there’s still a lot to get excited about with this set. Firstly, the two examples are accompanied by Omega extracts indicating they were produced on the same day. More interestingly, the serial and movement numbers of the two watches are consecutive, meaning one rolled off the assembly line just after the next. The next thing that excites me about this set, is a DIY engraving of sorts on one example’s caseback, which reads “Wasif”. Perhaps this is the original owner?

$22,500

IWC Automatic cal 852

iwc vintage automatic 852

Next up is a watch that I frankly don’t have very much to say about. It’s a stainless steel IWC that dates back to the mid 1950’s, and within it’s 35mm case is a supremely clean white dial, with all luminous plots still intact, and little to no signs of heavy use. This piece also makes use of IWC’s automatic Cal. 852 movement, which I’ve always considered to be quite aesthetically pleasing and nicely structured. I like to think this would make a great starter piece for someone just falling into the rabbit hole of vintage watch collecting.

$1,500 or Make Offer

 

Dean’s Picks

Here’s another week where a couple of watches just jump off the screen at you at the first dealer’s website you stop at and you can’t help but spreading the gospel. Let’s go with the big hoss first, and the more under-the-radar watch second.

Cartier Tank Cintree

cartier cintree

The big boy this week is a vintage Cartier Tank Cintree from the ’50s. A men’s watch with striking proportions that really stands out on the wrist, the Cintree was introduced in 1921 and is notable for its long, slim curved case. Multiple models were produced over the years, but production of the vintage model was clearly very low, especially in white metal. These watches are nearly impossible to find nowadays and reside in the collections of some of the biggest names in horology and style. You can occasionally find modern examples that were released as a faithful reissue under the Collection Privee label in the early aughts. However, this is the first true vintage model I’ve seen come to online market in quite a while and it’s a doosy. While certainly not as crazy price-wise as a platinum vintage model (think a cool half mill), this is one sought after watch which I’m sure will set you back a few ducats.

Inquire for Price

Vacheron Constantin ref 6562

Vacheron Steel Vintage

Alright, so that’s the big boy. “What’s the under the radar watch,” you ask? It’s another watch for sale from Matthew Bain Inc. (no, I/we are not under his dominion or getting a kick-back). The piece in question is a steel Vacheron Constantin 3 hander from 1960, ref. 6562. Clearly vintage steel Pateks are the deep end of the pool, but if you’re looking for an area of the watch market that is relatively undervalued, I think some of these simpler time-only vintage VC and APs are the place to look. Listen, this is still a $7k time-only watch, so it’s by no means cheap (and might be on the high side for this particular reference). But if you look at comparable steel Calatravas from Patek, there is clearly a lot of relative value in this area.

$7,200

 

Shane’s Picks

Oris “Original” Diver 65

oris vintage diver 65

Ever since Oris released their Diver 65 last year, I’ve been keeping my eye out for vintage Oris watches that may have served as design inspiration.With this example here, there’s no doubt where the Diver 65’s dial comes from. Although the bezel obviously isn’t a match, it’s still an awesome piece with those killer retro 3-6-9-12 markers. For $300, I think this thing will get snapped up in no time.

$300

 

Doxa Sharkhunter 300T Synchron

Doxa Sharkhunter 300T Synchron

Though I’ve never owned one, I’m always drawn to 300T Doxas. They were some of the first dive watches that — from an aesthetic standpoint — said, “f@$k you, I’m a dive watch.” It’s not particularly good looking, and that’s because it’s designed for a job; good looks come second. This example is in fantastic shape, with what looks like a strong case, a clean dial with good patina, and a full set of accessories. You’ll get a box, instruction booklet, hang tag, and an Aqualung depth gauge. What’s more, the vintage tropic strap is the perfect set of shoes to set off the vintage diver look.

$2,200

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