Opinion: Favorite Watches of 2014

When we decided to look back at the watches of 2014, it took merely a few seconds to realize how great of a year it was for watches. Below you’ll find our individual picks, and I can safely say it wasn’t easy to decide what watches rocked our worlds the most. And before we get into our picks, we’d really like to thank ALL of you for following us here at Wound For Life. We’ve only just started to get off the ground, and every pageview means a lot. If you stick with us in 2015, we promise some big things will happen. On to the picks!

Isaac “Youngblood” Wingold

Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Dial

When I first decided to list this piece as one of my top picks of 2014, a smirk appeared on my face. To be perfectly honest, when the Deepsea D-Blue Dial  was first announced back in August, I was seriously disappointed. Rolex first teased the release with an image of what appeared to be a watch made using a blue-colored alloy, which instantly ignited debate and discussion throughout the watch community. When the watch was finally released, the hopes of many were definitely let down, as the watch was simply a standard Deepsea with an alternate dial to commemorate James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenge mission. Right away, I wrote this release off as insignificant and unexciting.

Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Dial

Then, after an encounter with a Deepsea out in the wild, my entire perspective was shifted, and I can now admit that I was dead wrong. The dial is insanely gorgeous, and while a blue to black gradient dial with lime green accents makes absolutely no sense on paper, it just works. It’s one of those dials like that of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, and FP Journe’s Chronometre Bleu, that gradually reveals interesting nuances and intricacies upon closer inspection. If you’re thinking about picking up a DSSD, I say go for the D-Blue. Its value is already appreciating, and I can definitely see them becoming quite collectible down the road.

Nomos Metro

Accessible horology is one thing I can always get behind, and Nomos truly has this sub-genre of watches down to a science. As an enthusiast of the brand, and German watchmaking in general, the release of the Metro definitely tickled my fancy. Conservatively sized at 37mm, the Metro hugs the wrist well with its delicate wire lugs, and looks great while doing it. The brand collaborated with Berlin-based designer Mark Braun to develop the watch, and the quintessentially German design, along with the quirky addition of mint green and red accents really comes together well. This is yet another example of details that don’t necessarily sound the best in theory, but look terrific in execution. At just under $4,000 USD for such a mechanically sophisticated watch, you really can’t argue with this one

The Nomos Metro, featuring the in-house Swing System escapement

Although I could wax poetic about the Metro’s refreshing Bauhaus aesthetics, let’s get into the real meat and potatoes of this awesome piece – the movement. The Metro’s manually-wound, DUW 4401 caliber is produced fully in-house in Glashütte, and what impressed me most was the new, in-house developed, Swing System escapement. Nomos has definitely taken the right steps to prepare themselves for the industry’s future of movement supply, and the fact that they’re controlling so much of their production is something to take note of. For a brand this young, their accomplishments are certainly remarkable once you take their relative affordability into account.

Isaac’s Honorable Mentions:

A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna

G-Shock X Maharishi Lunar Bonsai (I had to!)

Piaget Altiplano 900P

Neil “The Real Deal” Wood

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph

It’s always nice to see something different from Panerai. There are many versions of their Luminor Marina and Radiomir, however, almost all of their watches are based on those two platforms and there are similarities throughout. The Radiomir 1940 is a nice departure from the norm — retro-inspired, the 45mm case houses Panerai’s and hand wound OP XXV caliber, featuring a 30 minute column-wheel chronograph and 55 hour power reserve. The dial, hands, and markers are wonderfully vintage and look amazing together. The details all work in harmony and the overall look of the dial is perfectly balanced. A tachymeter scale lines the outer portion of the bi-compax dial, integrating with the minute markers flawlessly. Taking things one step further, the Plexiglas crystal adds to the vintage feel. Turn the watch over and you might argue the back looks as good as the front. The absolutely stunning Minerva 13-22 powered movement is expertly displayed through an exhibition caseback. Minerva actually has ties with Panerai going back to the 1920’s when they were their supplier of movements, and I’m thrilled to see the fruits of this relationship.

OP XXV / Minerva 13-22 movement

The Radiomir 1940 Chronograph comes in platinum (PAM518), red gold (PAM519), and white gold (PAM520). There are minor differences with each. The platinum, or “Platino”, has blue accents on the chronograph seconds and minute counter, as well as a painted ivory colored dial. Dubbed “Oro Rosso”, the red gold variant has a chocolate California dial, and the white gold, or “Oro Bianco”, has a black sandwhich dial. If I had to chose one I would go with the white gold. The color combo and sandwhich dial just work for me. Only 100 of each will be made, and the $60,000-$80,000 price tag puts them out of reach for the average person, but hopefully Panerai will make a steel version sometime down the road.

Sinn EZM13

Sinn EZM13, courtesy diveintowatches.com

Sinn is one of those manufactures that represents incredible value for an amazingly well engineered piece. “Over-engineered” is probably the right word for it. We covered their EZM13 briefly with our First Impression of their Basel 2014 releases. In a sea of ever growing cases, the EZM13 is the right size for a dive watch at 41.5mm — the proportions are what really draw me to this watch. The chronograph has a single register that records 60 minutes, a welcome feature that is not often seen and that cuts down on the clutter of dial. Moving the crown and pushers to the left side of the case allows for further comfort and prevents digging in on the top of the hand and wrist.

Placing the chronograph counter at 6:00 and keeping it the same shade as the hands and markers in tandem with the subdued running seconds at 3:00 is innovative, and manages to keep the dial clean. With red numerals on a black background, the date window between 4 and 5 is done just right. It is always frustrating to have a well executed dial only to be marred by an in-your-face date window. The EZM13 avoids this pitfall quite well. Combine these with outstanding features and technology we’ve all come to expect from Sinn — 500m depth rating, 1,000 Gauss anti-magnetic protection, anti-reflective and anti-fogging sapphire crystal, temperature resistance from -45 to 80 degrees Celsius, and traditional Sinn toughness and value — and you’ve got a sure winner for one of our favorite watches of 2014.

Neil’s honorable mentions:

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Blue

Bremont Terra Nova

Rolex Sea Dweller 4000

Shane “Needs a Nickname” Griffin

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial

Okay. I’m a little biased on this one. Less than a day after it was announced at Baselworld 2014, I was inquiring about reserving a Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial. Normally, vintage watches do it for me, but this was the first modern watch I’ve seen in quite some time that I “had to have”. Its proportions are nearly perfect for a modern diver: 41mm in diameter, 15mm thick, and 48mm lug-to-lug. Sure, 15mm doesn’t exactly sound svelte, but it’s thinner than the Planet Ocean carrying the caliber 8500. Combining perfect proportions and well-preserved vintage good looks, and you’ve got yourself a killer package.

Of course, that can’t be all. Aside from a complication, Omega packed all of their best technology into the Seamaster as well. Their caliber 8400, which can be admired through the exhibition caseback, is entirely anti-magnetic. It’s been tested up to 15,000 Gauss, which happens to be the limit of their testing machine. Considering all parts of the movement are non-ferrous, chances are it can handle well above that number. The bezel insert is Liquidmetal, which is basically bombproof as far as inserts are concerned. I’m not a fan of the polished centerlinks (in fact, those suckers are getting brushed), however, the micro-adjustable clasp is a fantastic feature. I don’t dive, but depending on the temperature, my wrist sometimes swells or shrinks enough to warrant adjustment. All in all, Omega hit a homerun with this release, and I can’t wait to get my hands on it.

Habring² Felix

Habring2 Felix

I’m a total sucker for small brands punching above their weight class. There’s no way a shop of only a few hardworking watchmakers should be producing the kinds of killer pieces you’ll find at Habring2. A foudroyante for a little over $7,000? Get outta town! A dead-beat seconds for $5,300? Say what?! Okay, enough of that. Seriously, Richard and Maria Habring have built a powerful force out of Austria that produces truly some of the best values on the market. It wasn’t until several months ago that they announced their first fully in-house movement — taking their offerings to the next level. Discussed in a couple of our previous articles, the Habring2 Felix is easily one of my favorites of 2014.

Previously, Richard had built his watches around the venerable ETA 7750, modifying them extensively to accommodate a host of complications and configurations. Now with the caliber A11, he’s built a new movement from the ground up. Although it has a new escapement and gear train, Habring² smartly kept the base similar enough to the 7750 that their existing modules can be added. If you’re doing the math, then you’ll realize the A11 will eventually work its way into their entire lineup, generating a host of unique calibers. Kicking things off with the Felix, Habring² created a modestly sized, classic looking piece that can easily straddle the line between casual and dress. Honestly, I find it hard to believe anyone will object to this watch — it’s gorgeous. And at less than $5,500, good luck finding a better value out there.

Shane’s Honorable Mentions:

Rolex Deepsea Challenge

Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Chronograph

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