By Market Watch(ing) January 1, 2016

Market Watch(ing): New Watches for the New Year

patek philippe 2552 ciani

Whelp, we got started a little late today, folks. You can safely blame bubbly, fermented beverages for that. However, lady hangover couldn’t keep us away from watches for long, because Market Watch(ing) is live. We’re all over the map today, so sit back, and READ UP!

 

Neil’s Picks

Hamilton Chronograph circa 1960’s

Hamilton Chronograph

Hamilton is a brand that represents a significant bargain when it comes to vintage chronographs. With panda dials being all the rage recently, they offer many options at a fraction of the price of other brands. While this model isn’t a panda dial in the traditional sense, it’s a great looking piece none the less. I for one prefer the cleaner look of two sub dials over three, and the charcoal gray dial provides an interesting contrast and is nice change from the traditional black one. On top of that, the red accents on the sub dials, minute track, and the chronograph hand really make this watch stand out. Between the cushion case and the pop of color, this is a watch that looks wonderfully ’60s. And yes, the cushion case makes me want to buy this immediately. Fortunately this case is about 39mm which is also a draw for me. Often these older cushion case watches come in about 42mm, and I feel 39mm is just right for a vintage piece like this. Hamilton is great vintage brand that has great pieces that are still affordable and this one is certainly no exception.

$1,950

 

Tudor Black Bay Black

Tudor Black Bay Black

I can probably say that I’m a bigger fan of modern Tudor watches more than I am of modern Rolex watches, and a large part of that has to do with the Black Bay. Tudor seems to be able to do the things their bigger fancier brother can’t do. They are able to create pieces with great features but have a unique look and style all their own. They do this while keeping things very affordable. I loved the Black Bay when it was first released with the red bezel, I loved it when they came out with the the blue, and this one is just a complete home run. This watch does the “modern vintage” thing just right, a trend which I’d venture to say the first Black Bay started. At under $3k, you get the watch in almost new condition on the fantastic Tudor bracelet and the complete kit. For when you want your black bays blacker, this is the watch for you.

$2,850

 

Isaac’s Picks

Alright you denizens of the horological Internet, 2016 is here, and that means we’ve spent exactly zero dollars on watches this year. It’s time to get down to business, and I think I may be able to help, so buckle up.

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2552

patek philippe 2552 ciani

To start the new year off with a bang, my first pick is a vintage Patek Phillipe, and it’s a good one. Known as the “Disco Volante” by many collectors and experts, this Ref. 2552 Calatrava is not only a rare, beautiful, and eye-catching watch, but also an important piece in the history of the brand. As you may know, the “Cal. 12,600 AT” which is found inside the Ref. 2552’s platinum case was Patek’s first automatic movement, and after being introduced in 1953, it would go on to be used in thirteen references over the next few years.
What makes this piece so special is that the platinum version of this reference is believed to only have been produced in twelve examples, so my use of the word “rare” is by no means out of line. If that wasn’t enough, let’s talk a bit about the condition of this specific watch. The case is untouched, the hallmarks are sharp, the correct “PP” crown is present, and the dial is quite clean. If low key bling is what you’re after, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better watch. If interested, this watch is currently available from Alessandro Ciani for $135,000.

$135,000

 

Rolex Daytona ref. 6265 “FAP”

FAP rolex daytona shear

Next up is a vintage Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265, and it’s a special one at that. This is what is referred to as the “FAP” or “Peruvian” Daytona since it was delivered to the Fuerza Aerea del Peru many years ago, as indicated by the engraving on the caseback. I’ve always considered the FAP Daytona’s to be particularly interesting and somewhat puzzling pieces in Rolex’s history, due to the fact that the Daytona really isn’t a pilot’s watch, and screw down pushers don’t make very much sense for aeronautical use. It’s the quirks and stories like these that make so many vintage Rolex’s a joy to collect and study.
If you ever begin to question or doubt an unusual vintage Rolex, the best way to ease your mind is to take a look at the papers. Luckily, this example includes both the original box and papers, which the pilot “was so clever to save”. Clever indeed. The original owner also took great care of his watch, allowing collectors today to appreciate its sharp, thick lugs, and clean sigma dial. Scoop this one up from New York based dealer Andrew Shear.

Price on Request

 

Dean’s Picks

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2509

patek 2509 foffi

Just recently, the Wound For Life team was having a spirited discussion on the value and desirability of vintage Patek Calatravas. I took the dissenting opinion that, for a small, time only watch that is relatively plain, the things are overpriced. Well, here I am eating crow because Italian Superdealer™ Andrea Foffi has one cracker of a steel reference 2509 with all the fixins’. “What makes this watch special,” you ask? Well aside from condition and completeness, it is both antimagnetic and water resistant. In fact, it is believed to represent one of Patek’s earliest water resistant cases. Oh, and did I mention this one is in steel? *micdrop*

Inquire for Price

Longines Legend Diver

original longines diver

Okay, if prestige vintage steel Pateks aren’t your thing, maybe I should get back to the Wound For Life wheelhouse. Obviously you are familiar with the Longines Legend Diver. It is my unprofessional opinion that the original version of these watches are undervalued, generally speaking. They are certainly becoming difficult to find and are being featured by many of the big time auction houses. Now, I don’t know that I’d call $9,500 a steal for this watch, especially considering that one of the crowns might have been replaced, but it’s still worth a look-see.

$9,500

Shane’s Picks

Habring2 Jumping Seconds Pilot

Habring2 Jumping Second

I’ve never been shy with my admiration for Habring2 and the value they provide in the $5,000 to $10,000 range. Where else can you get jumping seconds, crown-operated chronos, and foudroyants with price tags containing less than five digits? Speaking of jumping seconds, that’s exactly what we’re looking at here. Analog/Shift is selling one of Habring2’s dead-beats from the Pilot line. There’s not much to say about this other than the fact that it’s a steal at $4,200. If I were to choose between this and an IWC Mark XVII Pilot, I’m going Habring2 all the way.

$4,200

 

Breitling Panda Chronograph ref. 814

breitling 814 panda

It seems like any and all Heuer chronos from the ’60s and ’70s have been shooting up, especially with panda dials. Folks are starting to look elsewhere because prices are getting a bit rich. Examples like this Breitling ref. 814 are perfect for achieving the panda Camaro look without the $2,500 to $4,000 price tag. Powered by the Venus 178 (same as many early Navitimers), the 814’s case is a retro square shape, which has been kept in outstanding condition. Both the dial and hands are crisp and clean, and it sounds like the watch was just serviced. You’ve got about two days left on the auction, and the high bid is currently at $1,400. At $1,500, it would be a steal, and at $2,500, it would probably be a fair buy.

Bid Now

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3 Comments

  • January 4, 2016

    Ian

    Well … After a flurry of late bidding – that Breitling went for $2800 … Seems high if you compare to other examples.
    Woundforlife effect again?

    • January 4, 2016

      Shane Griffin

      Looks like the W4L effect is real!

  • January 6, 2016

    Liam

    I wish i could afford some of these. Truly stunning. One day!