NOMOS continues to impress with their unique designs and technological innovations — this time it was their Tetra that made me stand up and take notice at Baselworld. For 2016, it was updated this year increasing the case size from 29.5 to 33mm. Previously featuring NOMOS‘ manual wind Alpha Calibre, the Tetra Neomatik now showcases their thin in-house automatic DUW 3001.
The case size of 33mm is just about perfect for any wrist. While it may seem small on paper for those not used to square or rectangular cases, but with this watch, it creates the perfect proportions along with 20mm lug width and 6.3mm case thickness. There is definite wrist presence, yet without overdoing it. While the previous generation with its manual wind movement and 29.5mm case might be more understated and formal, this case is just right on my 6.75″ wrist.
I did not change the strap on the watch but I bet it would look killer on any number of straps from distressed leather to a NATO. Speaking of the strap, it’s handmade shell cordovan leather and extremely comfortable. Leather straps are often too flimsy or too stiff. This one follows the Goldilocks principle, feeling strong but also soft. Although it would have been simple, there’s a reason I never felt the need to change it out.
The classic and understated dial is quite mesmerizing. White-silver plating on the dial changes depending on the light, appearing glossy or matte with the subdial adding further dimension. Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10, and thin markers replacing the other numbers keep the dial balanced yet uncluttered, while remaining quickly legible. “NOMOS” text sits front and center at the top of the dial in black, along with “GLASHÜTTE” right below, and then underscored by “neomatik” in small brown text, adding a subtle change. In addition to that, the red subdial seconds hand and small cyan blue numerals at the 5 minute intervals around the outside of the dial — with the exception of a red dot at 6 — add the right amount color and variety to the dial preventing it from becoming stale. When I initially saw these releases at Baselword this year, I was interested in the “nachtblau” version, but after wearing this, I really became drawn to this silver dial.
I’m generally the last person to go for a square case or a dress watch, however, I can honestly say I would not hesitate to wear the NOMOS Tetra Neomatik, in either color combination. It is fairly dressy, which comes in handy for those more formal situations but still sporty enough to wear on the weekends – or any time, for that matter. While it may not be perfect for every single situation (probably not for diving), this watch would fill an excellent niche in a collection that is perhaps more sports watch driven. Someone who prefers to wear less formal watches would still undoubtedly enjoy this watch. Overall, I was quite impressed. With NOMOS, the devil is in the details and that axiom certainly shows with the Tetra Neomatik.by