Market Watch(ing): Chronograph Combo Breaker

longines conquest panda

With a short work week, Market Watch(ing) came quicker than ever. Luckily, we were ready for it, and we still managed to turn out a pretty solid roundup. What could have been an all-chronograph perfect game ended up being broken up by a budget diver, but hey, we got our catchy title out of it. Okay; enough filler, let’s get to the picks.

 

Neil’s Picks

Heuer Monaco 1133G

Heuer Monaco 1133G

Having just returned from Monaco, this seemed like an appropriate choice for Market Watch(ing) this week. Although TAG Heuer has released a very faithful version with their new Calibre 12 Monaco, you just can’t beat the original in this case. Of course the blue dial is the more famous version, but after seeing this, the gray dial has won me over, especially on the vintage steel bracelet that you normally don’t see these watches on. This combination is outstanding the the gray dial is slightly less flashy and can fit into more varied types of situations and settings. For a 40 year old watch, the condition is fantastic. There are only minimal scratches on the case that are just from basic use. The colors on the dial are still bright and the patina is even and crisp on the hands. You don’t see too many Monacos in this condition. The seller is trusted and one that I’ve dealt with personally, so buy with confidence. If Dean’s Monaco he found a couple weeks ago wasn’t your cup of tea, maybe this one will be. Pick up a vintage rally strap and you have all your bases covered.

€7,500 ($8,360)

 

UWECO (Universal Geneve) Ref. 5175 Chronograph circa 1935

UWECO ref. 5175

UWECO was an older sub-brand – some say budget – of Universal Geneve. One look at this watch and you’ll see there’s nothing “sub” or budget about it. This stunning piece features a 35mm case that houses the manual winding UG Cal. 385, which was used for over half a century in various iterations. Historic movement aside, it’s the dial that really stands out here. With gilt markings against the matte black dial, you can’t help but stare at this watch. Everything is remarkably sharp and in astounding condition, especially for a watch from the mid ’30s! Patina is almost perfect throughout with only slight cracking on the minute hand and with some missing at 5 and 7, although all told, that is very minimal and certainly wouldn’t stop me. Once again we have another European dealer but I have dealt with them and have the utmost confidence. Vintage UG’s seem to be the “in” watch right now so this one isn’t likely to stick around for very long.

€4,390 ($4,890)

 

Isaac’s Picks

Lemania Chronograph

lemania chronograph NOS

Last month in Geneva, we saw some strong prices being paid for stainless steel vintage chronographs during auction week. And while it’s not advisable that your view of the market’s current state be entirely based upon auction results, it’s certainly a sign of the times, and where collector’s interests are headed. With this in mind, here’s a 1940’s Lemania chronograph in stainless steel, currently being offered for sale by Matthew Bain in new old stock condition. Everything about this watch (including the original hang tag) is just so unbelievably clean, and at 37mm across, it’s the perfect size for everyday wear. Though with that said, I’m not sure that I’d be courageous enough to start breaking this one in, as it’s not every day that you come across a watch of this age in such remarkable shape.

$6,900

 

BUYER BEWARE: “Breitling” Chronograph Suisse

breitling chronograph suisse

This, my friends, is what’s known as a nightmare, and certainly not a Breitling. First off, you’ve got a case that looks to be entirely fake, made up of a hodge-podge of assorted parts, and a previously unsigned movement that’s been engraved with the Breitling name in script, rather poorly. Above all, the biggest indication that something isn’t right is the Chronographe Suisse dial on this piece, which they’ve again given the Breitling treatment with what appears to be a paint brush. Long story short, don’t bid. Don’t even think about it.

Don’t Bid, Ever

 

Dean’s Picks

Longines Conquest 30CH

longines conquest panda

Sometimes the watches just come to you and sometimes, well, you have to go to them. This turned out to be one of those weeks for me. Anywho here it goes.

Panda-dialed Camaros from Heuer are rare and coveted. They’ve always been tough to nail down. If you want that look for maybe a little less with no dropoff in pedigree, check out this Longines “Camaro” aka Conquest. Clearly the case is the same, but that’s about where the similarities end. The dial is quite different with a striking blue Tachy scale and under the hood is a whole different animal. Instead of the ubiquitous V72 you are getting a Longines 30CH, the successor to the vaunted 13ZN, a movement that is certainly no slouch and gives you flyback functionality which the V72 does not. So it has that goin’ for it….which is nice. Also, papers (in the form of an extract) are involved.

€4900

 

Shane’s Picks

Jardur Chronograph

jardur chronograph

This aviator’s Jardur reference has popped up in our Market Watch(ing) column at least once (I don’t feel like looking). It’s an interesting look with the multi-colored tracks, a feature that all the kids love these days. At first blush, this one looks a mess. However, I think a quick crystal buff would do wonders for it. The seller also makes it sound like the watch might have mechanical issues, considering that he’s selling it for repairs. If the price stays low, this one might be worth the risk, especially if you have a trustworthy watchmaker that can take on a potential headache.

Bid Now

 

Sicura Automatic Diver

sicura automatic diver

A dive watch with nice creamy patina is a must for any serious vintage collection. One of the main problems, however, is this “must” has driven up prices on everything from Rolex, to Heuer, and even to brands like Enicar and Nivada. Fear not, there are still some serious budget vintage dive watches out there. In this case, we have a Sicura from what I would say is the 1970s. It’s a very basic watch, but it has a classic diver look, and with nice patina on the dial and hands. I’d budget for a basic overhaul, but otherwise, this one might end up being a nice deal.

Bid Now

 

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