By Market Watch(ing) December 25, 2015

Market Watch(ing): All We Want for Christmas

Another week of obsessive vintage watch hunting has come and gone, and since the holidays are meant to be spent with your family and loved ones, we’ve done the heavy lifting for you, and have put together a great collection of stand-out vintage watches that we’d be happy to find under the tree. To all of our friends and valued readers celebrating today, we’d like to wish you a Merry Christmas, happy holidays, and the all the best in the upcoming year.

Dean’s Picks

Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph

Ok, I’ve covered this watch before – or at least the Zenith branded version of this watch. What we have here is its distant cousin, the Movado branded version. Honestly, I believe these watches to be essentially identical, like a 1964 Buick Skylark and a 1963 Pontiac Tempest (but I’m no Mona Lisa Vito when it comes to these things). Clearly today the name Zenith carries a lot more weight than Movado does for vintage watch collectors and the Zenith’s command a significant premium. However, you my dear savvy collector can recognize the value in the Movado version. The current example on eBay looks pretty clean and worth a few bids over the current price of $2,700 and change.

Bid Now

Eberhard Contograf

A watch that has been VERY hot lately and seems to be coming out of the woodwork as the prices rise is the original Eberhard Contograf. Long a darling of the European collectors, Eberhard is gaining steam among American enthusiasts and prices are up. I personally know of 2 examples that have sold recently in the 10-15k range so this one isn’t going to come cheap. This example at Bulang & Sons lacks an original bracelet (which I wouldn’t want to have to try source) and has some moderate patination on the subdials, but otherwise looks great. I tried one of these one the other day and let me tell you, for a vintage chronograph it has a very modern presence on the wrist and a great look.

Inquire For Price

Isaac’s Picks

Omega Speedmaster Ref. 145.012-67

In case you haven’t clued in yet, the post-Christie’s Speedy craze is still in full swing, and there are few signs of it slowing down anytime soon. A good example of this was the Speedmaster we featured in last week’s edition of Market Watching, that sold just shortly after the article went live. I guess I do have some influence after all! With that said, surprisingly reasonably priced examples are still popping up here and there, and with a little bit of searching, you can still strap on a great vintage Moon Watch without having to give up an arm and a leg, but not for long. Allow me to make my point.

This piece right here is a Ref. 145.012-67, which is a classic twisted-lug Moon Watch, making use of the revered Cal. 321 column wheel chronograph movement, fitted with a nicely “ghosted” dot over 90 bezel. Additionally, it featured the desirable applied logo at twelve o’clock on the dial, which some Speedy collectors can’t seem to live without. This brings us to one issue with this piece, which is the fact that some of the luminous compound is missing on the dial, though on the bright side, it doesn’t look as if anyone has attempted to relume the watch. It’s currently priced at $6,800 USD or best offer on eBay, so if you can live with the dial in its current state, go for it!

$6,800

 Buler Aquarius Diver’s Watch

One of my favorite pieces in Dean’s collection is his pastel-dial diver’s Mido Powerwind, and although it’s by no means the most valuable, well-known, or impressively crafted piece in his stable, it’s really just a damn cool watch that you can’t help but smile at when it’s on your wrist. During a late night eBay rampage earlier this week, I came across another piece that shared a few similar traits, and had me wondering if I really needed to pick up another watch before 2015 comes to a close.
Made by Buler (Bueller? Bueller?) in most likely the 1970’s, this piece is jam packed with character. It’s a dive watch, fitted with a silver dial that’s accented by a decompression scale that has been executed in red, blue, green, and yellow – bringing me back to the days of coloring books and crayons. I will say that the price of this watch is admittedly somewhat steep considering what other pieces from the same brand have gone for in the past, but sometimes you’ve just gotta suck it up for rare pieces like this. I think it would look great on an early tropic strap.

$1,499.99

 John W. Mecom Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205

This week on Jacek Kozubek’s (of HQ Milton) Instagram, quite the interesting watch was posted, and while it’s not available yet, I still think it’s worth discussing. The watch in question is a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205, and for those that know vintage Rolex, this isn’t just any Submariner, in that it is believed to be the first reference to have “Submariner” printed on the dial. This piece looks to be in beautiful, unpolished shape, with original lume, and a dial that is slightly tropical.
Now while the watch itself is a stellar example, what caught my eye about this piece is the inscription on the caseback, which reads “John W. Mecom”, who as you may know was a notable American oilman and entrepreneur hailing from Texas. Furthermore, the caseback has a second, slimmer inscription that reads “Stainless Steel”. This is a detail that I can’t say I’ve seen before, which makes it all the more intriguing. The watch isn’t currently available just yet, so send all inquiries direct to Jacek (info@hqmilton.com).

HQ Milton

 Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 Beaded Bezel

My personal thoughts on Breitling have always been complicated. Unfortunately, the brand has become the flashy watch of choice for individuals in need of 48mm+ watches to “ice out” with low grade stones, though in their early days, the brand produced some magnificent tool watches like the Navitimer, which is still available in their collection today, and is in my opinion the only modern Breitling worth buying. Though as you may have guessed, I prefer the original examples which date back to the late 1950’s and early 1960’s, as their vintage charm and complex yet highly dials are really a sight to see.

Coming from Matthew Bain in Miami, this specific piece dates back to 1959, and is arguably everything you should be looking for in a vintage Navitimer. Beaded bezel? It’s got that. Gilt detailing? Check. AOPA logo dial and a nice sharp case? You know it. This is really just a tremendous example of a true classic in the world of pilot’s chronographs, and I myself wouldn’t mind picking one up at some point down the road.

$7450

Elgin “Christmas Diver”

Lastly, since it is Christmas after all, I’ve decided to include a rather affordable Elgin that I found on eBay. While there really isn’t much to write home about regarding this piece, I thought the red and green bezel was fitting for the holiday season, and I really can’t say I’ve seen too many bezels like it! Cheap and cheerful.

$600

 Neil’s Picks

Rolex GMT Master 16750
Rolex GMT Master 16750

Rolex GMT Master 16750

A vintage GMT is a watch I consider a must have for any collection. It is one of the most versatile and best looking Rolex sports models. Although the prices have been climbing recently, you can still get a solid example at a relatively reasonable price. While the 1675 is the classic GMT, the 16750 has a special place among vintage pieces and also is an important transitional model from Rolex. It may look just like a 1675 from the outside but it’s what’s inside that matters. The movement was updated to the cal. 3075 and now had a quick set date. An important feature if you don’t wear the same watch everyday and don’t feel like winding it for a couple minutes to set the date. 16750’s with white gold surrounds on the dial are more common and less expensive, however the less common matte dialed versions like the one featured from ExoticWatches.net are what we really love. This is one of the earliest examples from around 1980 when the reference was first introduced. With even, wonderfully colored patina all around and spotless dial and corrosion free hands, this is one of the cleanest examples I’ve found. It even comes with the original 93150 bracelet, which is my personal preference over the 78360. The faded insert is the icing on the cake. Exotic Watches is a reputable dealer who always seems to find great pieces. Buy with confidence and get yourself a last minute Christmas present.

8,200 Euros

 

Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

I’m not sure how you become an aviator, a diver, and a regatta timer all at the same time but this watch has done it apparently. This Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver from Croton is another classic vintage dual register chronograph, a look that I’m just a sucker for. Underneath beats a 17 jewel Landeron cal. 248 manual-winding chronograph, a historical movement that has seen production numbers into the millions. Not to worry, even if you haven’t heard of Landeron, trust us, it is tough, reliable, and accurate. Landeron is also owned by ETA so there is a network of support should you ever need service. The exterior features wonderfully faded markers that are striking against the dark black dial and the pop of color from the red chronograph hand and 5 minute regatta countdown just complete the look.  You get a divers bezel that also functions as a second timezone bezel, similar to the Wittnaur 7004a or the Longines Heritage Diver 1967. The proportions are just right and the case is a perfect 38mm, and don’t worry, there are lug holes. What’s not to love? Here’s your chance to get a relatively inexpensive watch that looks like a million bucks. Do it!

$1,125

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1 Comment

  • December 30, 2015

    Chris

    A lot of really interesting pieces. I didn’t realize that Eberhard had become collectible. Long overdue.