Back again with another Market Watch(ing), we’re bombarding you with a bunch of our favorite sales from around the web. We’ve pretty much got it all: Rolex, quartz, Rolex quartz (!), vintage chronos, and military-inspired pieces. Happy hunting, all!
Neil’s Picks
Rolex 16550
Rolex 16550 Explorer II
The 16550 Explorer II is one of the unsung heroes in the transitional Rolex lineup. It was released in 1985 and followed the legendary — although somewhat unpopular at the time — reference 1655. Production numbers are low since the 16550 was only produced for about 4 years. With most turning a unique cream color, the white dialed versions seem to come on the market more frequently, however, it’s the black dialed version like the one we have here that I find more intriguing. A fantastic contrast can often be found between the patina developed on the markers and the black dial. One advantage of the black dial being less desirable than the white is that they can be found for a very reasonable price. The 16550 featured here has hands that are slightly lighter than the markers (finding matching hands isn’t too hard), which is not uncommon for these references, and the seller claims it to be all original, which is paramount. This one looks to have a newer bracelet and has been lightly polished, but the price is right and there’s recent service documentation so you can wear it worry free.
$3,800
Rolex 16750
Rolex 16750 GMT Master
I’m continuing with the transitional Rolex trend for this Market Watch(ing). This one is another hard-to-find reference. The 16750 GMT Master came after the 1675 and prior to the 16700, and was produced from 1981 till 1988. It is the last matte-dialed GMT. Combine that with the updated Caliber 3075 featuring the quickset date, and you have a winner. The 16750 isn’t necessarily hard to find, however it’s difficult to find a matte dialed version like the one we have here. Since the matte dials are rarer, they also command a premium. But frankly, for a quality piece like this with its stunning dial, the price is reasonable. There is a light fade on the bezel insert and you can always find different options for that as a 1675 insert will also fit the 16750. You can also buy with confidence as the seller is very trusted on multiple forums.
$7,500
Dean’s Picks
Tudor Submariner 9401/0 Marine Nationale
17,000 EUR
Bulova Chronograph
More Info
Silex Chronograph
950 EUR
Isaac’s Picks
Rolex ref 5100
Quartz can sometimes be seen as taboo within the world of high end watch collecting, but there are often a couple exceptions to this rule. This is certainly one of them. While this Rolex could be seen as just one of the many pieces that came out of the historic Beta 21 project, it is arguably one of the most rare and desirable watches to be released as a result of the collective effort of watchmaking. Allow me to introduce you to the Rolex 5100.
Is it kinda “bling-y”? Maybe. Is it in perfect, mint condition? Not quite. But does it ooze cool while bringing us back to a significant period in horological history filled with uncertainty, and the threat of a future that was up in the air? Most definitely. Such pieces truly are important representations of the measures brands took to ensure their survival during this time. This example was just recently listed, late last night. I really don’t think it’s going to last long, so if you’re interested, jump on it! Finding another one won’t be easy, to say the least.
$15,000
Bell & Ross Hydromax
Certain earlier designs of Bell & Ross will always hold a special place in my mind, in that they played a significant role in getting me into watches. One of my first interactions with a mechanical watch was actually with a Bell & Ross by Sinn 103, and the rest, as the say, is history. What we’ve got here is another early design from B&R, and it’s a good one.
The Hydromax is an interesting B&R, and although it uses a quartz movement, you’ve gotta give it credit for being capable of descending to depths of 11,000 meters, thanks to the oil filled case. Just yesterday, I had the chance to speak with a local watchmaker who handled the servicing for several watches like it. He talked me through the process of draining the oil filled cases, and then the logic behind how they’re filled, and it was definitely an eye-opening experience. This Hydromax could make a nice addition to a serious tool watch collection, and it’s definitely worth a look.
$3,018
Shane’s Picks
Hamilton “Poor Man’s Carrera” Chronograph
Over the last few years of being seriously into the vintage watch market, I’ve seen prices absolutely skyrocket. Pretty much anything interesting from known brands has increased 25% to 50%, or even more. We all know vintage Subs and Speedies are steadily rising, but Heuer Carreras are right there with them. Early Carreras have gotten to the point that they’re basically out of reach for the average buyer. So, what’s a guy to do? Answer: find himself a “poor man’s Carrera”.
Heuer used to produce watches for other brands, basically everything but the logo on the dial. Here we have a Hamilton chronograph that looks almost identical to a reference 7753 Carrera from the 1960s, save for a date at 6 o’clock and a missing an angled inner bezel. Panda dials are still all the rage, and it looks great on this Hamilton. Powered by a Valjoux 7734, it should be a fairly easy watch to service. The bracelet isn’t original to the watch, but this would look great on a racing strap anyway. With only a couple of days left on the auction, this should be a great $1,000 pickup.
Bid Now
Bulova Marine Star
There are two military-issued watches I’m absolutely in love with: the Heuer Bundeswehr Flyback, and Zenith A. Cairelli CP-2. And in keeping with the “poor man’s” theme, I’ve found a Bulova Marine Star, which is the aesthetic lovechild of the Heuer and Zenith, only at a more affordable price.
It’s said (although not proven) that this watch was created when Zenith had leftover A. Cairelli CP-2 stock with nothing to do but sell it off, with Bulova as a beneficiary. If that’s true, then this watch is quite the deal compared to the real deal Cp-2s selling for nearly $10K. At any rate, it’s still an awesome looking watch, and very worthy of a military-inspired watch collection. This one appears to be in outstanding shape, and the Valjoux 7731 — which is basically an updated Venus 188 — should be a reliable timekeeper. The seller has it listed at $3,495, but you can make offers on it. If this can be bought for a shade under $3K, I call that a win.
Bid Now
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